A car window that will not go back up is usually failed by one of four things: a worn window motor, a broken regulator that moves the glass, a faulty switch, or a simple blown fuse. Less often, the glass has slipped out of its channel or the wiring inside the door hinge area has cracked from years of opening and closing. The good news is that the behaviour of the window tells you a lot: a window that moves slowly then dies is usually a tired motor, while one that drops suddenly or leans at an angle has a broken regulator or slipped glass.
Start with the free checks
Try the window from both switches: the one on the affected door and the master switch on the driver door. If it works from one switch but not the other, the dead switch is your problem and the motor and regulator are fine. Check the child safety lock button on the driver door too, because it disables the rear window switches and catches people out every day.
Listen carefully while you press the switch. A humming or clicking sound from inside the door means power is reaching the motor. Complete silence suggests no power at all, which points back to the switch, the fuse, or broken wiring. Check the fuse box next; the handbook shows which fuse covers the windows, and a blown fuse is a five minute fix, though you should ask why it blew if it happens again.
Motor failure versus regulator failure
The motor turns, and the regulator is the mechanism, either a cable system or a scissor arm, that the motor drives to lift the glass. Their failures feel different. A dying motor moves the glass slower and slower over weeks, struggles most on the way up, and may stop halfway then work again after a rest as it cools. Like other small electric motors in the car, it wears its brushes down over years of use, in much the same way described in our guide to blower motor symptoms and replacement.
A broken regulator fails suddenly. You hear a crunch, a bang, or the sound of cables unravelling inside the door, and the glass may drop down into the door or tilt forward. Cable regulators fray and snap, and plastic clips that hold the glass become brittle with age and heat. When the glass has dropped, do not keep pressing the switch: the loose cable wraps itself into a worse tangle and can scratch the glass.
Getting the glass up for now
If the motor still makes a sound, you can sometimes help the glass up by pressing the switch while gently pulling the top edge of the glass upward with flat palms on both sides. Have a second person press the switch so you can use both hands. Never force glass that is tilted or jammed, because it can crack.
If the glass will not move at all, the door trim panel has to come off to reach the mechanism and lift the glass by hand, then wedge it or tape it in place from inside until the repair. Workshops do this quickly. At home, panel clips break easily and the sharp metal edges inside doors cut hands, so this is a job to attempt only if you are comfortable with trim tools and patience.
Keeping weather and thieves out
A window stuck open is more than an annoyance: rain soaks the seat, the carpet, and the door electrics, and the car cannot be locked securely. As a temporary cover, use a clear plastic sheet taped to the outside of the door frame with painter tape, which removes without leaving glue on the paint. Park under cover if you can, and take valuables out of the car.
If the interior does get wet, dry it properly rather than letting it sit damp for days, because that is how musty smells start. Our guide to how to freshen a car interior covers drying and cleaning fabrics before odours set in for good.
Broken wiring in the door hinge
Every time the door opens, the bundle of wires between the body and the door flexes. After years, individual wires crack inside their insulation, and windows, speakers, and locks on that door start failing one by one or working only when the door is in a certain position. If your window works with the door open but not closed, or the opposite, this is the likely cause. Repair means finding the broken wire inside the rubber boot at the hinge and soldering in a new section.
What the repair costs
| Repair | Typical cost in dollars |
| Fuse or switch replacement | 50 to 200 |
| Window motor replacement | 200 to 450 |
| Regulator replacement | 250 to 500 |
| Motor and regulator assembly | 350 to 700 |
| Door wiring repair | 100 to 300 |
Many modern cars sell the motor and regulator as one assembly, which raises the parts price but cuts labour time. Rear door windows usually cost a little less than front ones, and luxury cars cost more across the board.
Manual windows that will not wind up
Cars with winding handles have no motor or fuse to blame. A handle that spins freely means the regulator mechanism has broken or the handle has stripped its splines, and a handle that will not move at all means the mechanism is jammed or the glass has left its channel. The fix is the same regulator replacement, usually at the lower end of the price range because the parts are simpler.
Frequently asked questions
Can I pull a stuck window up by hand?
Only if it still moves a little with the switch and stays straight in its channels. Support the glass with flat palms on both sides and lift gently while someone works the switch. If it is tilted, dropped, or jammed, leave it, because forcing it can crack the glass.
Will a window stuck down drain my battery?
The window itself will not, as long as you are not holding the switch down. The risk is leaving the car with interior lights on while you work on it, or water getting into door electrics. Keep the doors closed when you can and sort a temporary cover quickly.
Is it worth replacing just the motor, or the whole regulator assembly?
If the regulator cables and clips are old, most mechanics recommend the complete assembly, because the labour to open the door is the same and a worn regulator often fails soon after a new motor is fitted. On newer cars the parts are sold together anyway.